Planting spring bulbs in fall: tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and more

When to plant

Plant when the soil has cooled, not by a fixed date. A good sign is soil below about 55 °F at planting depth, after night temperatures have settled in the 40s °F. The bulbs then have roughly 4–6 weeks to root before the ground freezes (estimated).

• Cold winters (zones 3–5): September to early October.
• Moderate winters (zones 6–7): October to November.
• Mild winters (zones 8 and warmer): November to December; tulips and hyacinths may need 6–10 weeks in the fridge first.

Not sure of your zone? The zone finder in the Planting calendar tool shows it in a few seconds. Planting too early in warm soil can make bulbs sprout in fall or rot; planting a little late is usually fine as long as the ground can still be dug.

Choosing bulbs

• Firm and heavy: squeeze gently; a good bulb feels like a fresh onion, not a sponge.
• Large: bigger bulbs of the same variety carry more stored food and give more and larger flowers.
• Clean skin: no soft spots, blue-green mould or deep cuts. Loose papery skin is normal.
• Not sprouted much: a short pale tip is fine; long shoots mean they were stored too warm.
• Buy early for the best choice, then keep bulbs in a paper bag in a cool, dry, airy place until planting.

Depth and spacing

The general rule: dig a hole 2–3 times as deep as the bulb is tall, measured to the base of the bulb. In light, sandy soil go a little deeper; in heavy clay a little shallower. The table gives typical values (estimated).

Step-by-step planting

1. Choose a spot with at least half a day of sun in spring and soil that does not stay wet.
2. Loosen the soil about 12 in deep and mix in some compost. Do not add fresh manure.
3. Dig individual holes or a wide trench to the right depth. Planting a group in one wide hole looks more natural.
4. Set each bulb with the pointed end up and the flat root plate down. If you cannot tell, lay it on its side; the shoot will find its way.
5. Space the bulbs as in the table. Groups of 5–7 or more look better than single lines.
6. Fill the hole with soil and firm it gently with your hands so there are no air pockets.
7. Water well, even if rain is forecast.
8. Mark the spot with a label so you do not dig into the bulbs later.

Layered pots (the lasagna method)

A single pot can flower for weeks if you plant bulbs in layers: the largest, latest bulbs at the bottom and the smallest at the top. Each grows up past the others and they bloom one after another.

⚠️ In very cold climates, soil in a pot freezes much harder than in the ground. Move the pot into an unheated garage or shed, or wrap it, during deep freezes.

Watering and mulch

Water thoroughly right after planting; this settles the soil and starts root growth. After that, fall rain is usually enough. Water only during long dry spells, while the ground is not frozen.

Once the soil surface has cooled, spread 2–3 in of mulch (shredded leaves, bark or straw). It keeps soil temperature steady and stops frost from pushing bulbs up. Pull it back in early spring when shoots appear.

The biggest danger is standing water: bulbs in soggy soil rot over winter. In heavy soil, mix in grit or compost, or plant in raised beds.

Protecting from squirrels and mice

• Daffodils, snowdrops and alliums are rarely eaten; tulips and crocuses are favourites. Mix them in or choose the less tasty ones.
• Lay chicken wire or hardware cloth over the planting area and cover with soil; shoots grow through the holes.
• For small groups, plant inside a wire mesh basket.
• Clear away papery bulb skins after planting; their smell attracts diggers.
• Plant a little deeper and firm the soil well.

Care after flowering

Snap off faded flowers so the plant does not waste energy on seed, but leave the leaves. For about 6 weeks after flowering (estimated), the leaves make the food stored in the bulb for next year. Do not cut, braid or tie them; wait until they turn yellow and pull away easily.

A light feed of balanced or bulb fertiliser as the shoots emerge helps. If daffodils flower less every year, the clumps are crowded: lift and divide them when the leaves have died back.

Tulips often flower well only in the first year. Species tulips and Darwin hybrids are more likely to return.

Forcing bulbs indoors

Hyacinths are the easiest bulbs to force into flower indoors in winter.

• In water: set the bulb in a forcing glass so its base sits just above the water, never in it.
• Cold period: keep it in a dark, cool place (about 40–48 °F) for 10–12 weeks (estimated), until roots fill the glass and the shoot is about 2 in tall.
• Flowering: move it to a bright, cool room. It flowers in about 3 weeks (estimated).
• Paperwhite narcissus need no cold period; they flower 4–6 weeks after potting.
• Forced bulbs are tired afterwards; plant them out in the garden or discard them.

Some people's skin is irritated by hyacinth bulbs; wearing gloves is a good idea.

Pet safety

The bulbs of tulips, daffodils and hyacinths are the most toxic part of the plant to cats and dogs. Dogs that dig up freshly planted bulbs or chew bulbs left in a bag are most at risk.

• Store bulbs out of reach before planting.
• Protect fresh plantings with wire if you have a dog that digs.
• Keep the water in forcing glasses out of pets' reach.

⚠️ If you think your cat or dog has eaten a bulb or any part of these plants, contact your vet straight away.

Frequently asked questions

Bulbs and plants in this guide

TulipDaffodilHyacinthLilyPeonyDahliaGarlic