Winter plant care: how to prepare garden, balcony and houseplants
Most plants that die in winter are not killed by a single cold night but by a chain of small mistakes: pots left on cold stone, citrus brought in too late, houseplants watered as if it were still July. This guide covers the garden, the balcony and the living room, with a checklist you can work through in an afternoon.

- When to start
- 2–4 weeks before your first frost (estimated)
- Time
- An afternoon, plus quick checks on cold nights
- Cost
- Low: mulch, fleece, pot feet
- Key rule
- Water less, stop feeding, keep light high
Know your first frost date
Everything in this guide is timed against one date: the average first frost where you live. It depends on your climate zone, altitude and distance from the sea, so a coastal city and a town 30 miles inland can differ by weeks. The climate zone finder in our Sowing calendar tool gives your zone and typical frost window.
- Start moving tender plants 2–4 weeks before that date (estimated).
- Watch the forecast: clear, still nights after a sunny day are the coldest.
- Frost settles in low spots; a balcony on a high floor is often a few degrees milder than a ground-level garden.
Bringing tender plants indoors
Plants from warm climates cannot handle frost and are best moved inside while nights are still above about 45°F (estimated). Moving them gradually avoids leaf drop.
- Acclimatise: over 1–2 weeks, move pots to a shadier spot outside, then indoors for part of the day.
- Check for pests: look under leaves and at stem joints for aphids, scale, mealybugs and spider mites. Rinse foliage with a gentle shower and remove any hitchhikers before the plant meets your houseplants.
- Tidy up: remove dead leaves and fallen fruit; trim leggy geranium stems by about a third.
- Keep new arrivals apart for two weeks if you can, so any pest you missed shows itself.
Bring in early (below about 50°F)
- Bougainvillea
- Hibiscus
- Mandevilla
- Most tropical houseplants summered outdoors
Bring in before frost (about 40–45°F)
- Lemon, orange and mandarin
- Geranium (pelargonium)
- Fuchsia
- Rosemary in pots in cold areas
⚠️ Leaf drop after the move is common in citrus and bougainvillea. Keep conditions steady and don't overwater; new leaves usually follow.
Protecting pots on balconies and patios
Roots in a pot are far more exposed than roots in the ground: cold reaches them from every side. A plant that survives winter in a bed can die in a container.
- Raise pots 1–2 in on pot feet or bricks so water drains and the base doesn't freeze to the floor.
- Group pots together against a wall; they shelter each other and the wall gives off heat.
- Wrap the pot, not just the plant: bubble wrap, hessian or an old blanket around the sides.
- Terracotta and glazed pots can crack when wet soil freezes; move them under cover or use frost-proof containers.
- On windy balconies, tie tall plants loosely so they don't topple.
Mulching
A layer of mulch insulates the soil, keeps the temperature more even and protects shallow roots and crowns. Spread 2–3 in of bark, leaf mould, straw or compost over the root zone once the soil has cooled but before hard frosts.
- Keep mulch a hand's width away from stems and trunks to avoid rot.
- Pile a little extra over the crowns of perennials that are borderline hardy in your area.
- In pots, a layer of bark on top of the compost also helps.
Frost covers and fleece
On frosty nights, horticultural fleece (frost cloth) traps heat rising from the ground and can give a few degrees of protection (estimated). Drape it over plants so it reaches the ground, and weigh down the edges.
- Cover in the late afternoon, before the heat of the day is lost.
- Remove or open it on mild, sunny days so plants get light and air.
- Don't use plastic directly on leaves; frost forms on the plastic and burns what it touches.
- An old sheet or cardboard box works in an emergency.
⚠️ Fleece helps against light frost only. For hard, long freezes, tender plants need to be indoors or in a frost-free shelter.
Watering, light and dry air in winter
Garden: evergreens and plants in pots can still dry out, especially under eaves. Water on mild days when the soil is dry, in the morning, so the surface isn't wet at night.
Houseplants: most grow slowly in winter and use far less water. Check with a finger and water only when the top inch is dry; for succulents and cacti, much less often.
Light: move plants closer to the brightest window and clean dust off leaves. Rotate pots every couple of weeks.
Dry air: radiators and heaters dry the air fast. Keep plants away from them and from cold drafts, and group plants together or use a pebble tray to raise humidity.
Feeding: stop fertilising from mid-autumn until growth restarts in spring. Winter-flowering plants such as the Christmas cactus are the exception while in bloom.

Vegetables that grow through winter
A bed doesn't have to stand empty. Many cool-season crops tolerate frost and some even taste sweeter after it.
- Hardy: kale, cabbage, leeks, garlic, broad beans, spinach and winter lettuce varieties.
- Root crops: beets, carrots and parsnips can stay in the ground under a thick mulch and be lifted as needed.
- Use fleece or a cloche on the coldest nights for leafy crops.

Signs of frost damage and what to do
Frost-damaged leaves look dark, glassy or water-soaked the morning after, then turn brown and limp. Buds and young shoots are hit first.
- Don't cut straight away. Damaged growth protects the buds below it from the next frost.
- Wait until the risk of frost has passed in spring, then trim back to healthy green tissue.
- Don't fertilise a damaged plant to "help" it; that forces soft new growth.
- Check pots: if the root ball froze, wait — many plants regrow from the base.

Winter checklist, step by step
- Find your average first frost date with the climate zone finder in the Sowing calendar tool.
- Two to four weeks before it, start moving tender plants into shade and then indoors for part of the day.
- Check every plant for pests, rinse the leaves and remove dead material before bringing it in.
- Give indoor arrivals the brightest window, away from radiators and drafts.
- Raise outdoor pots on feet, group them against a wall and wrap the containers.
- Mulch beds and borderline-hardy perennials once the soil has cooled.
- Keep fleece, pegs and old sheets ready for frosty nights.
- Cut watering for houseplants and stop fertilising until spring.
- After a frost, leave damaged growth and prune only when spring arrives.
Garden vs houseplant winter care
Garden and balcony
- The main enemy is frost and wet, cold soil.
- Mulch, fleece and pot wrapping do the work.
- Water only on mild days when dry.
- Tender plants must come in before frost.
Houseplants
- The main enemies are low light, dry heated air and overwatering.
- Move closer to windows and away from radiators.
- Water less often; check soil first.
- No fertiliser until spring, except plants in flower.
Frequently asked questions
When should I bring my plants inside?
Before night temperatures drop below about 45°F for citrus and geraniums, and below about 50°F for tropical plants (estimated). Start 2–4 weeks before your average first frost.
Why are my plants dropping leaves after coming indoors?
Indoor light is much weaker than outdoors. Some leaf drop is normal; keep the plant in the brightest spot and avoid overwatering while it adjusts.
Can I leave potted plants outside in winter?
Hardy plants yes, if the pots are frost-proof, raised and wrapped. Plants that are only borderline hardy in your area need shelter.
Should I cut back frost-damaged plants right away?
No. Leave the damaged growth until spring; it shields the buds beneath it. Prune once the frost risk has passed.
Plants that need winter attention
Lemon TreeGeraniumBougainvilleaChristmas CactusOlive TreeRosemaryCabbageGarlic
Sources
- RHS — Preventing winter damage
- RHS — Frost damage
- University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension — Overwintering tender geraniums
Last updated: 2 November 2026