Propagating plants from cuttings: in water and in soil

Types of cuttings

Not every plant roots the same way. Pick the method that matches how your plant grows:

• Stem (tip) cuttings: A piece of stem with a few leaves and at least one node. The most common method for pothos, philodendron, tradescantia, basil, mint and rosemary.
• Node (eye) cuttings: A short stem section with one node and one leaf. Useful for climbers like pothos and monstera when you want many new plants from one vine.
• Leaf cuttings: A single leaf, sometimes with a short stalk. Works for succulents such as jade and echeveria, and for African violet and snake plant.
• Plantlets (babies): Some plants make ready-made offspring. Spider plant sends out runners with small plantlets that often already have root nubs; they root within days.

Best time, tools and hygiene

Take cuttings in spring and early summer, when plants are growing actively and days are long. Cuttings taken in winter can still root indoors, but more slowly. Water the mother plant a day before so the stems are full of water.

• Sharp, clean scissors, pruners or a knife
• Rubbing alcohol or hot soapy water to clean the blade
• Clear glass jars or bottles (for water rooting)
• Small pots with drainage holes and fresh, light potting mix (for soil rooting)
• Perlite or coarse sand to lighten the mix
• Optional: rooting hormone, a clear bag or lid for humidity

Clean the blade between plants. Crushed, ragged cuts and dirty tools invite rot.

⚠️ Only take cuttings from healthy, pest-free plants. A cutting carries any pests and diseases of its parent.

What is a node and where to cut

A node is the slightly swollen point on a stem where a leaf joins it. It holds dormant buds and the cells that can turn into roots. A cutting without a node usually does not root, or it roots but never grows a new shoot.

• Cut about ¼ in below a node, with a clean, slightly angled cut.
• On climbers like pothos and philodendron, look for the small brown bumps at the node: these are aerial roots, and they grow quickly in water.
• Remove the leaves from the lowest one or two nodes; these nodes will sit in water or soil.
• Keep 2–4 leaves at the top. Too many leaves lose water faster than the cutting can replace it.

Rooting in water or in soil?

Both methods work. Water is easy to watch; soil saves you a transition step later.

Step by step

1. Choose a healthy stem with 2–3 nodes and no flowers. If it is flowering, pinch the flowers off.
2. Cut about ¼ in below the lowest node with a clean blade. A cutting of 4–6 in is ideal for most houseplants.
3. Strip the leaves from the bottom node or two so no leaves will be under water or soil.
4. Water: Put the cutting in a clear jar of room-temperature water so the bare nodes are submerged and the leaves stay dry.
5. Soil: Make a hole with a pencil in moist potting mix, insert the cutting so at least one node is buried, and firm the mix around it.
6. Place it in bright, indirect light at about 68–75 °F. Avoid direct sun, which overheats jars and wilts cuttings.
7. Change the water every 3–5 days; in soil, keep the mix lightly moist and air out any cover daily.
8. Move water cuttings to soil when roots are about 1–2 in long. For soil cuttings, a gentle tug that meets resistance means roots have formed.

Rooting hormone (optional)

Rooting hormone is a powder or gel that contains plant growth substances which encourage root formation. Easy rooters like pothos, mint and tradescantia do not need it. It is most helpful for woody or semi-woody cuttings such as rosemary, and for slow rooters.

• Dip only the cut end, tap off the excess, then plant in soil.
• Pour a little into a separate dish instead of dipping into the container, so the rest stays clean.
• It is mainly used for soil rooting; in water most of it washes off.

⚠️ Follow the product label for use and storage, wear gloves if advised, and keep it away from children and pets.

Succulent leaf and stem cuttings

Succulents store water in their leaves and stems, so they handle cuttings differently from leafy plants.

• Twist off a healthy leaf from jade or echeveria so that the whole base comes away cleanly; a torn leaf rarely roots.
• Let it dry: Leave leaves and stem cuttings in a dry, shaded spot for 2–7 days until the cut end forms a callus (estimated). Thicker stems need longer.
• Lay leaves on top of dry cactus mix, or insert stem cuttings slightly into it. Do not bury leaves.
• Mist or water lightly only after tiny roots appear, usually within 2–4 weeks (estimated).
• Christmas cactus segments are an exception that also root well in water once the cut end has dried for a day.

Rooting times by plant (estimated)

Times depend on warmth, light and season. Values are for roots about 1 in long in spring or summer conditions.

Moving rooted cuttings to a pot

• Choose a small pot, about 3–4 in wide, with a drainage hole. A large pot stays wet too long for young roots.
• Use a light potting mix; add perlite for pothos and philodendron, and cactus mix for succulents.
• Plant several cuttings together for a fuller plant.
• Water-rooted cuttings: keep the soil a little more moist than usual for the first 2 weeks so the roots can adjust, then return to normal watering.
• Keep the young plant out of direct sun for a week or two. New leaves are the sign that it has settled in.

Common problems and fixes

Frequently asked questions

Plants that grow well from cuttings

PothosHeartleaf PhilodendronSpider PlantJade PlantChristmas CactusBasilMintRosemary